I read a report on the study that you're referring to, and a few things jump out.

1. Some concerns deal with what's missing, not with what's being added. In a dish, we can add all the vitamins and fatty acids you can want. It might actually be healthier if so enriched, like what they sell at those juice places.

2. Any concerns about what's being added have to do with pollution or plants that are genetically modified (although what they think is getting in from GMFs is unclear). Again, in a dish, nothing gets added unless it's wanted.

And if I may, muscle and fat cells are exactly what meat is, and anything else is contained in and produced by those cells. The question is whether or not you can get the cells to act the way you would want them to in a biorector. Granted, that would need to be tested extensively and thoroughly, but once tested, I still don't see what the concern is.

Lastly, I wouldn't necessarily blame our national unhealthiness on industrialization of food. There are a number of factors to health, most important of which are the decisions by people to eat healthily or unhealthily. For example, unless a person has an innate genetic metabolic condition, no one becomes obese by accident, and it's never a surprise.

In summary, it's only a terrible idea if it's done wrong or irresponsibly. But until there's evidence that stem-cell created meat is any worse (or better) then high-quality whole animal meat, then there's not much to argue about. And that evidence won't come until someone actually tries to make it.

By the way, another good article on this topic was written in Slate(here)