{"id":3293,"date":"2025-10-29T14:43:26","date_gmt":"2025-10-29T14:43:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/scienceblog.com\/horizon\/?p=3293"},"modified":"2025-10-29T14:43:26","modified_gmt":"2025-10-29T14:43:26","slug":"keeping-clothes-in-circulation-how-eu-research-is-transforming-textile-waste","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/scienceblog.com\/horizon\/3293\/keeping-clothes-in-circulation-how-eu-research-is-transforming-textile-waste\/","title":{"rendered":"Keeping clothes in circulation: how EU research is transforming textile waste"},"content":{"rendered":"

EU-funded research is helping to turn old clothes into new, quality products, aiming to reduce textile waste and make recycled textiles the norm.<\/p>\n

By<\/em> Ali Jones<\/p>\n

In a factory in Waregem, north-west Belgium, a unique piece of machinery accessible only by fingerprint to trusted staff, is transforming old clothing and textiles with the utmost precision, away from prying eyes.<\/p>\n

Stretching 170 metres, the machine gently untwists woven and knitted fibres, preparing them for reuse. These fibres are at the heart of a four-year EU-funded research initiative called tExtended to transform the future of textile recycling.<\/p>\n

The motivation is clear: each year, 7\u00a0million tonnes of textile waste end up in European landfills or incinerators, according to the\u00a0European Environment Agency<\/a>.<\/p>\n

There is only one such machine in the whole world, pointed out Koen De Ruyck, general manager of PURFI Manufacturing, a company pioneering sustainable textile \u201crejuvenation\u201d.<\/p>\n

\u201cIf you\u2019re a visitor to our factory, you only see what goes in and what comes out,\u201d he said. \u201cMost of the technology operates within a black box, to keep the process as secret as possible.\u201d<\/p>\n

Unlocking upcycling<\/strong><\/p>\n

The technique is called \u201csoft mechanical recycling\u201d. Instead of shredding or tearing fabric to gather fibres, this process unravels the material so the fibres keep their strength and length.<\/p>\n

This makes a big difference. High-quality fibres can be turned into new clothes rather than ending up as low-grade products like cleaning cloths or car insulation.<\/p>\n

\u201cMost recycling is actually downcycling,\u201d said De Ruyck. \u201cYou start with something beautiful and end up with something very basic. Upcycling is less than 1\u00a0% at the moment and until that increases, we won\u2019t bring the total amount of waste down.\u201d<\/p>\n

A Europe-wide ambition<\/strong><\/p>\n

The Waregem trials are just one part of\u00a0tExtended, which runs until November 2026. It brings together research and industry partners across Finland, Sweden, Belgium, France, Ireland, Latvia, Slovakia, Spain, Portugal and Switzerland.<\/p>\n

Together, they want to show the way for Europe to slash its textile waste by up to 80\u00a0%. It is a bold target, but one that reflects the huge environmental footprint of textile production \u2013 and the EU\u2019s determination to make sustainable products the norm.<\/p>\n

Since January 2025, EU countries have been rolling out separate collections of textile waste in response to EU rules. This means that old clothes and fabrics can no longer go in with the rest of the rubbish.<\/p>\n

The change is designed to give garments a second life \u2013 whether through reuse, repair or recycling \u2013 and to push fashion brands to design products that last longer and are easier to recycle. For many in the textile sector, however, it is still a new concept.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s very little information at the moment about how different kinds of textile waste can replace raw materials in textile production,\u201d said Dr Pirjo Heikkil\u00e4, principal scientist and project manager at the VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland, who coordinates tExtended.<\/p>\n

Keeping textiles in circulation<\/strong><\/p>\n

The tExtended team is working on a blueprint for producers, detailing how to sort and process different types of textile waste, and the best ways to reuse them. Their work directly supports the\u00a0EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles<\/a>, which aims to reduce overproduction, encourage repair and reuse, and make recycling a mainstream option.<\/p>\n

For Heikkil\u00e4, who has researched textiles for 25 years, the project has also changed her personal behaviour.<\/p>\n

\u201cNowadays I think very carefully about what I buy. I choose second-hand clothes, and if I buy new, I check where and how they were made,\u201d she said. \u201cI repair items and think about how to pass them on if I no longer need them.\u201d<\/p>\n

While consumers have a role to play, she stressed that the main responsibility lies with industry to create more sustainable products.<\/p>\n

From waste to wear<\/strong><\/p>\n

The PURFI trials are putting recycled fibres to the test, checking their quality and performance before spinning them into yarn for clothing and bed linen.<\/p>\n

Pilot runs are already underway, with recycled denim being produced from an even split of production waste and old clothes. The tExtended team\u2019s long-term goal is to reach denim made entirely from pure recycled cotton.<\/p>\n

In Portugal, JF Almeida, a leading towel producer, is experimenting with recycled materials in its spinning mills, looking for the best mix of recycled and virgin fibres.<\/p>\n

Already experienced at recycling waste textile from its own factories, the company is seizing the opportunity to further advance its recycling capacity with support from international partners.<\/p>\n

\u201cSustainability is part of our DNA,\u201d said Liliana Miranda from JF Almeida\u2019s commercial department.<\/p>\n

\u201cEvery day, customers ask us about recycled products. For us, this project is a chance to create new products with less impact on the planet \u2013 and to open up new markets.\u201d<\/p>\n

Global leader<\/strong><\/p>\n

By reducing incineration and boosting recycling, the tExtended team aims to reduce Europe\u2019s reliance on imported raw materials and make the textile sector more competitive worldwide.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere is an opportunity for Europe to become a global leader in sustainable, high-quality textile products,\u201d said Heikkil\u00e4.<\/p>\n

The progress of initiatives like tExtended shows how innovation and collaboration can turn waste into value and offers a blueprint for textile recycling far beyond Europe.<\/p>\n

Research in this article was funded by the EU\u2019s Horizon Programme. The views of the interviewees don\u2019t necessarily reflect those of the European Commission. <\/em><\/p>\n

\u200bThis article was originally published\u202fin\u00a0Horizon<\/a>\u00a0the EU Research and Innovation Magazine.<\/em><\/p>\n

More info<\/p>\n