The oldest fire we know of is not in a myth or a temple. It is under a hill in New South Wales, about a four-hour drive north of Sydney, and it has been burning without pause since before the pyramids, before writing, before almost anything we would recognise as history. No one lit it on purpose. No one has ever put it out. It just keeps going, slowly eating its way through a coal seam about 30 metres underground.

Locals call it Burning Mountain. On the maps it is Mount Wingen, and Wingen means “fire” in the language of the Wanaruah people, the site’s traditional custodians, who regard it as sacred. What sits beneath the surface is not a volcano. It is a smouldering coal seam.

How can a fire burn for six thousand years?

Start with what it is not. This is not fire the way you picture it, with flames and a flickering front. A coal seam fire smoulders. It burns slowly and without flames, closer to a cigarette ember or a glowing charcoal briquette than a bonfire. That is why it can last so long. Flaming fire is fast and hungry and burns itself out. A buried ember creeps.

The ember at Mount Wingen has never been seen directly, because it is 30 metres down. Guillermo Rein, a professor of fire science at Imperial College London, has studied it, and he is careful about the limits of what anyone actually knows. “No one knows the size of the fire under Burning Mountain,” he told ScienceAlert, “you can only infer it.” From what can be worked out, he estimates “it’s likely a ball of around 5 to 10 meters in diameter, reaching temperatures of 1,000 degrees Celsius.” Note the “likely.” Everything here is estimate, not measurement.

What keeps it alive is that it makes its own conditions to survive. As Rein describes it, “as the fire progresses, it heats up the mountain causing it to expand and crack, letting in oxygen so the fire can then move forward. The fire produces its own chimney and its own supply of oxygen.” That self-feeding loop is why coal seam fires are so hard to stop. There is no single thing to douse. The fuel, the air, and the heat all renew themselves underground, out of reach.

Why 6,000 years, and why some scientists say 15,000

A quick note before going further: we’re not geologists or fire scientists, and this is reporting on what specialists have said, not a technical account. Where the numbers are inferred rather than measured, we’ve tried to say so.

Nobody carbon-dated the fire. The age comes from math. As the fire has crept through the seam it has left a charred path around 6.5 kilometres long. Divide that distance by how fast it moves, and you get a figure in the thousands of years. Rein puts the emphasis in the right place: “it’s not just that it’s 6,000 years old… it’s at least 6,000 years old.” The 6,000 is a floor, not a ceiling.

Some estimates run lower, at around 5,500 years, and some run much higher. A figure of up to 15,000 years has been floated, though we’d treat the older end as speculation rather than settled fact. Either way the scale is hard to hold in your head: recorded human history runs roughly five thousand years, and this fire is older than that.

How it started is its own open question. Coal can catch by itself. When a seam is exposed to air, it slowly reacts and warms up, and once it passes a certain temperature it can tip into a smoulder on its own. For coal that trigger point sits somewhere in the range of 35 to 140 degrees Celsius. A lightning strike, a bushfire reaching an exposed edge, or simple chemistry could have done it. Six thousand years on, the actual spark is lost.

A metre a year, and a scar that moves with it

The fire is not staying put. It moves generally south through the seam at about one metre a year. In a human lifetime it shifts perhaps 80 metres. Over its history it has covered that 6.5 kilometres, leaving a trail of scorched, collapsed ground behind it and healthy bush ahead.

Rein’s description of the surface is the detail that stays with us. “Ahead of the fire where it hasn’t arrived you see this beautiful eucalyptus forest,” he said. “Where the fire is now there’s absolutely nothing alive, not even grass.” The mountain wears the fire as a slow-moving wound: dead ground marking exactly where the ember sits below, greenery on the side it has not yet reached.

Left alone, it will keep going. Rein’s assessment is that “it could burn for thousands of years without human intervention.” A prediction, not a promise, but a reasonable one given how long it has already managed.

The volcano that wasn’t, and the fires nobody talks about

When Europeans first came across the smoking hillside, they read it wrong. The first documented sighting was in 1828, and it was taken for a volcano, which is a forgivable guess for smoke rising out of a mountain. The correction came the following year, when the geologist Reverend C.P.N. Wilton identified it as a burning coal seam. What looked like a vent to the earth’s molten interior turned out to be, in effect, a very old campfire.

What makes Mount Wingen unusual is not that it burns but that it started naturally and has lasted. Coal fires themselves are common. At any given time it is one of thousands burning at any one time worldwide, most of them started by mining rather than nature, and most burning out relatively quickly. The notorious underground fire under Centralia, Pennsylvania, which emptied a whole town, has been alight for almost 60 years. Against six thousand, that is a blink.

Together they add up to more than a curiosity. Global Energy Monitor compiles estimates that coal fires account for about three percent of the world’s annual carbon dioxide emissions and release roughly 40 tons of mercury a year.

What keeps drawing us back to this place is the sheer mismatch of timescales. A fire started by nobody, older than every empire and every scripture, still inching south at the speed of a growing fingernail, indifferent to whether anyone is watching. It has outlasted all of recorded history, and will very likely keep going long after the people reading about it now.