Northwestern University researchers have found that teen skincare routines popular on TikTok expose young users to dangerous levels of skin irritants that could trigger permanent allergies.
The first study to examine these viral beauty videos reveals girls as young as seven are using an average of six facial products daily, with some applying more than a dozen items in elaborate routines that cost up to $500 per month. These complex regimens contain ingredients known to cause allergic contact dermatitisโa condition that can restrict what soaps, shampoos, and cosmetics users can safely use for the rest of their lives.
The Hidden Price of Viral Beauty
What makes these TikTok routines particularly concerning isn’t just their complexityโit’s the cumulative exposure to irritating chemicals. The top-viewed videos contained an average of 11 potentially harmful active ingredients, creating a perfect storm for skin damage.
“That high risk of irritation came from both using multiple active ingredients at the same time, such as hydroxy acids, as well as applying the same active ingredient unknowingly over and over again when that active ingredient was found in three, four, five different products,” explained Dr. Molly Hales, the study’s corresponding author and a board-certified dermatologist at Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine.
The research team discovered something troubling: these products are specifically marketed to younger consumers, despite carrying elevated risks. The average regimen costs $168 and typically lasts about a month, putting significant financial pressure on families while potentially harming their children’s skin.
When Beauty Routines Turn Dangerous
One video analyzed in the study showed the real-time consequences of these excessive routines. A content creator applied 10 products to her face in just six minutes. The results were immediate and concerning.
“As she’s applying the products, she begins to express discomfort and burning, and in the final few minutes, she develops a visible skin reaction,” noted Dr. Tara Lagu, the study’s senior author and adjunct lecturer at Feinberg School of Medicine.
This example illustrates why dermatologists are sounding the alarm. The study found that 20 inactive ingredients commonly used in these products are included in the Pediatric Baseline Seriesโa testing panel specifically designed to identify substances that cause allergic reactions in children.
Key Study Findings:
- Girls ages 7-18 use average of 6 products per routine
- Some routines include more than 21 potentially irritating ingredients
- Average cost of $168 per regimen, with some exceeding $500
- Only 26% of daytime routines include sunscreen
- Videos averaged 1.1 million views each
- Content creators’ ages ranged from 7 to 18 years old
The Sunscreen Gap That Worries Experts
Perhaps most concerning for dermatologists is what’s missing from these elaborate routines. Only 26% of daytime skincare regimens included sunscreenโarguably the most important skincare product for any age, but especially critical for developing skin.
This oversight becomes more significant when considering that many of the active ingredients in these routines, particularly hydroxy acids, can increase sun sensitivity. Young users are essentially making their skin more vulnerable to UV damage while skipping the one product that could protect them.
How the Algorithm Shapes Beauty Standards
The researchers uncovered something beyond ingredient lists that raises red flags. To conduct their study, they created TikTok accounts posing as 13-year-olds and analyzed what the algorithm served up.
What they found revealed troubling patterns in how beauty is presented to young viewers. “We saw that there was preferential, encoded racial language in some cases that really emphasized lighter, brighter skin,” Lagu observed. This bias toward lighter complexions embedded within skincare content sends powerful messages about beauty standards to impressionable viewers.
The study methodology itselfโresearchers had to create fake teen accounts to access this contentโhighlights a crucial problem. Parents and pediatricians have virtually no way to monitor what children are viewing, thanks to sophisticated algorithms that personalize content feeds.
Beyond Skin Deep: The Psychological Cost
Dr. Hales raised concerns that extend far beyond dermatology. The psychological impact of these intensive beauty routines may be just as damaging as the physical effects.
“It’s problematic to show girls devoting this much time and attention to their skin,” Hales explained. “We’re setting a very high standard for these girls. The pursuit of health has become a kind of virtue in our so
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